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How The Gilded Age reset the rules: the September issue heralds the arrival of New Nostalgia

As for Julian Fellowes’s TV hit The Gilded Age, the second series will air in early 2023, and there are rumours of a British duke making his debut as a love match for the daughter of the newly loaded and ambitious George and Bertha Russell. Marian Brook, played by Louisa Jacobson, will soon be joined on 61st Street by Agnes van Rhijn’s nephew; while Denée Benton’s character, Peggy Scott, is forging her own path in the world of the black elite.

But it’s not only the 1880s where society’s savviest have sought out lost glamour – it’s the 1980s, too, and this year’s sartorial stars are reviving lost glamour. At Ascot, the Duchess of Cambridge’s Alessandra Rich polka dots recalled both Julia Roberts in Pretty Woman and ’80s-era Princess Diana, while Made in Chelsea’s Sophie Hermann, in her self-described ’80s Mafia look, is number 4 on Tatler’s Best Dressed List, which makes a comeback in the September issue.

At the recent couture shows in Paris, the theme continued. For Schiaparelli’s autumn/winter couture show, Daniel Roseberry looked back to Christian Lacroix’s 1987 debut collection, evoking the era with structured silk bustles, gigot sleeves and navel-grazing necklines. Alexandre Vauthier similarly opted for a vampy ’80s silhouette, with power suiting, velvet dresses and double denim. Culturally, we’ve seen the Rolling Stones playing to rave reviews in Hyde Park, Paul McCartney headlining Glastonbury and Kate Bush riding high at the top of the charts thanks to ’80s nostalgia fest, Stranger Things. One thing is for certain: those who dare to look back are in the lead right now…

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